Gaskets and Seals for Indian V-Twins

Here is a study on Indian V-Twin gaskets. I have always hated oil leaking gaskets, and seals. I have spent many years finding the best cures, and this is what I have come up with.

Let's start at the top. I have used the common "Composite" head gaskets from Starklite Cycle Parts for years, and they work OK for standard motors, that are ridden softly. They need to be torqued 10 pounds at a time up to 50 Ft.Lb's. I usually do this, then wait over-night, and then gently bring them up to 55 Ft. Lbs. torque. They usually require a second torquing after about 500 gentle break-in miles.

For more severe duty riding, you will want to use a Copper Head Gasket. They will resist more top-end heat, and can be re-used many times. They don't just "Blow-Out" after time. They can also "wick" cylinder heat to the head for better cooling. I have mine made at Cometic Gasketswho make the very best gaskets. I get them in .050" thickness, but they will make other sizes. I use .050" thick, because that is a good "Squish" distance from the top of the piston to the "Flycut" surface of the head for piston clearance. Never go below .040"! The general rule of thumb is that you "Flycut" the heads by the same amount of the piston top above the cylinder deck at TDC. For an 80" it is usually around .150" above the deck. For my Stroker Scouts, I have forged pistons made that would also be at .150" above the deck at TDC. It's a good combo for power. Then the .050" Copper Gasket sets the "Squish" distance at .050" as well.

It is a good idea to use an old "Racer's Trick". In the past, racers would clean their copper head gaskets with Lacquer Thinner, and then paint a very thin coat of silver paint on both sides. I use Krylon "Dull Aluminum", which I also use for painting Iron Oil pumps. It melts into any small imperfection, and seals well. I have had my Cometic Copper Gaskets on my Twin-Scout off at least 25 times, and they never needed annealing. I just clean them with Lacquer Thinner, and add the thin coat of silver paint. They have performed flawlessly!

Here are Cometic Gaskets part numbers for my custom Copper Head Gaskets: Chief (1932-1953) = H4563SP2050C, Sport Scout (1934-1942,also 648) = H0973050C, My Twin-Scout custom Combustion Chamber = H0973SP2050C.

Torquing Head Gaskets

Indian head gaskets need to be properly torqued (and re-torqued after 500 easy miles). I use the torquing pattern shown below marked on the head gaskets. I start with #1, then skip (2) holes to the next, etc. So the pattern is 1,4,7,3,6,2,then 5. When I remove a head, I slightly loosen each bolt in the same pattern to prevent head warping.

Note: I have found that virtually ALL Scout cylinders have had (2) or more head bolt holes stripped out, and in need of Heli-Coil repairs. The holes are short, and strip out easily. For this reason, I make seperate stainless-steel studs made from stainless "all-thread" rod. I bevel the lower edge, and cut a screw-driver slot at the tops. I number each stud on the bottom, so they always go back in the same holes. I use thick Indian head bolt washers, and special "12 point flange nuts" from ARP. They use a 9/16" wrench. I cut each stud in length, so there are (2) threads showing above the installed flange-nuts. I set the gasket and head on, then screw each stud in just snug. I torque each flange-nut to 20 Ft/Lb, then 30, then 35, then 40, then 45, then 50. Done!

CONTACT INFORMATION:

James R. Mosher

(505) 466-7870